Cagliari – June 9, 2023
Jun 26th, 2023 by rallyadmin
A quick breakfast, check out and load the car. Point the car downhill and hope for the best. The last descent is a non-event. Back through Posada. Stop at an ATM at the post office for some cash and on the road again. This time to Cagliari, again.
Barbara has for a town on the route, Orgosolo, which has two interesting attractions: 150 plus murals painted on the walls and it is one of the few places left where silkworms are an essential part of the economy. We focus on the murals. Click here for more info on the murals of Orgosolo.
The small, hilly town is known throughout Italy for its murals painted on the building walls all over the small town. The subject matter of the murals is extremely diverse but the predominant theme is political resistance. Because the first murals were done by a collective of anarchists, the political content deals with the Italian Resistance, Nazism and even Pinochet and Chilean politics.
This excerpt from the above link says a great deal about the Italian political mind in general and the Sardinian political and cultural mind in particular, “The first mural in Orgosolo was signed by Dioniso in 1969: Dioniso was the collective name of a group of anarchists. Just a few years later, in remembrance of the Resistance and Liberation of Italy from Nazism and Fascism, a transplanted Sienese middle school teacher and his former students painted additional murals, to which various artists and local groups gradually added their own creations. Although Orgosolo was where the Italian muralist tradition began, other towns like San Sperate, Villamar and Serramanna have cultivated this art for years, a cultural and social phenomenon that expresses still today global and international themes. Numerous murals adorn so many communities in Sardinia’s inland provinces, and they portray in their own beautiful language the culture and customs of the local people.”
It’s a remarkable collection of political graffiti and the Italians love their graffiti, especially political graffiti. The murals are very reminiscent of the street art in Santiago, Chile. Considering how most western countries despise graffiti, this is a well done collection of art that just happens to be painted directly on building walls.
We spent quite a bit longer in Orgosolo hiking up one street and down another marvel ling at the amazing artwork. We needed lunch and eventually found a small trattoria on a side street. Up 4 floors to the top of the building and a great lunch.
While we were eating we started conversation with the only other party in our small dining room, a group of 2 Italian couples and a Frenchcouple. We joked a bit about American politics and on the way out, one of the Italian men, from Milan, mentioned that the Champions League final was tonight, Manchester City v Inter Milan. I wished him well as we left. (Sadly, Inter Milan lost to Manchester City, 1 – 0, leaving our lunch mate devastated, I’m sure.)
But we had still a long way to go to get back to Cagliari. Back in the car and on the road. Tomorrow starts a 2 night stay with a break from driving.
Obiwan
